The good chaps at Gruhme were kind enough to send me a bottle of their new fragrance, Gruhme No.14, for me to try last week. Now that I’ve spent a good few days wearing it (which is a testament in and of itself), I thought I would share my thoughts.
Big Things Come in Small Packages
Let’s start with the packaging and bottling. Gruhme have gone for a decidedly minimalist approach to their branding, and it really works. Simple and clean, printed upon the soft-touch black box is white text.
This continues to the bottle, which is reassuringly chunky, and doesn’t feel fragile like so many other high-end fragrances. As a result, I felt no qualms throwing it into my suitcase recently when we went away. The black bottle is practical too – it’ll keep the light out and help delay the breakdown of the precious perfumes within.
My only slight complaint is the spray. While it does an excellent job of dispersing Gruhme No.14, it dispenses it in rather a large quantity and as such can be relatively indeterminate in where you apply it.
“The bottle is reassuringly chunky, and doesn’t feel fragile like so many high-end fragrances”
I personally like to put a spray on the inside of my wrists, and on the pulse-points either side of my neck. As the spray spits out such a large amount, you are torn by either spraying from a further distance, and the resulting concentration of the fragrance where you want it reduced, or spraying close and finding it dribbling down your neck.
It may well just be me being picky, but I would prefer a spray with a lower dose.
“From the first spray, I was struck by the freshness of the head notes”
Onto to the smelly stuff. Gruhme No.14 is a more concentrated version of their original Gruhme fragrance – upping the fragrance blend from 10% to 14%. This is still an eau de toilette rather than a parfum, mind. It has some good staying power though, and can easily survive a day, perhaps with a top up in the evening should you so choose.
From the first spray, I was struck by the freshness of the head notes, but there was one character I just couldn’t quite identify. After using is a few times, I could finally put my finger on it – fresh cut grass. This then settles into citrus heart notes, the sharpness offset by a slight sweetness, before giving way to woody notes.
Taking a while to develop, the base notes reveal a deeper woodiness and soft floral elements of patchouli.
I was pleasantly surprised by Gruhme No.14 – I find it quite hard to find fragrances I like and will consistently wear – but from the first spray, I could see they were onto a winner. Bar my slight concerns over the dosing of the spray, it’s a really great product, and I wouldn’t hesitate in recommending it.
I would like to see a parfum at some point in the future, too, as I think the additional concentration will really help to bring out the more complex base notes and increase the longevity.
£45 per 100ml